Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation typically indicated by brown patches on one’s upper lip, forehead, cheeks, and can be troublesome to treat. Until the condition is fully cured by melasma treatments, in the meantime you may need to mask the brown spots with makeup.
In order to hide the melasma, you will require more than the standard concealer. Concealer is best suited to hide smaller imperfections of the skin and may not be enough. The ideal option in this case is to find a quality camouflage makeup.
A couple of excellent brands you can start with are ColorTration (ColorTration Liquid Cover Makeup) and Dermablend (Dermablend Cover Crème SPF 30 foundation).
Another great option from Dermablend is its Leg & Body cover that might be more effective for melasma since it can even cover up tattoos. Unfortunately, it is only SPF 15 and will dry out faster than the Cover Crème. To start, use only a tiny amount and take care to blend around demarcation lines. Allow the makeup to slightly dry before applying more and when you are done, wait an additional 5-8 minutes for it all to dry before using setting powder.
The ColorTration product is very potent, so not much is needed. However, it should be used in conjunction with moisturizer to make it natural looking and not too matte. (For additional directions or how to apply this product, please visit their official website).
Selecting the correct foundation shade (or shades) is crucial. Here is a shade selector tool for Dermablend, and ColorTration provides a color trial kit that will assist you in finding the right shade or assortment of shades to determine the best match for your skin tone.
Steps to Applying Makeup for Melasma
- Start with a clean, dry face. This will maximize the longevity of the makeup over the course of the day.
- Moisturize. Ensure that your skin is moisturized, especially if you normally have dry skin. This helps keep your skin smooth and will reduce the likelihood of the makeup looking cakey and unnatural. Make sure the moisturizer is fully absorbed into the skin by allowing it to sit. If you are going to be exposed to the sun, make sure to use moisturizer with sunscreen. This step is crucial because sun exposure is a cause of melasma and can worsen it.
- Apply makeup primer. After applying, allow it to dry for at least five minutes.
- Select your applicator. Some individuals like using their fingertips to gradually apply makeup. If you prefer this, make sure your hands and fingers are cleaned well. If using a brush, use a fluffy, synthetic eye shadow brush or other such brush that will allow light application. The idea is to apply thin layers until the desired coverage is reached.
- Start small. With a brush or spatula, dab a small amount of makeup on the back of your hand. Be aware that some of the camouflage can dry rapidly, so you will have to work quickly and start small and build coverage. You also want to avoid applying too much makeup because it should appear natural on the areas that require concealing.
- Apply directly on dark patches. With your brush or fingertips, apply makeup in thin strokes, tapping gently with your foundation brush (or fingertips) and blending outwardly. If more coverage is needed, tap more product onto the area until satisfied. To give your skin a more natural look, remember to blend at the edges.
- Apply foundation if necessary to surrounding skin, making sure to blend well.
- Apply setting powder. This helps set the makeup and prevents smudging and transfer of makeup. Powder liberally, pressing into the skin using the powder brush. Let it sit for a few minutes so the powder can set, then lightly brush off any excess.
That’s it! It may take some time before your makeup looks completely natural. It may even be a good idea to first seek a professional makeup artist to assist in finding the best foundation and to learn how to properly cover up your melasma with makeup.